Clay County History

Clay County, Florida, rich in natural beauty and history, is a water wonderland, where lakes and rivers are in abundance. With its entire eastern boundary defined by the north-flowing St. Johns River it is no wonder that the scenery is captivating. Once a part of Duval County (Jacksonville), Clay County was carved out in December 1858. The county consists of our incorporated municipalities: Orange Park, Green Cove Springs, Penney Farms, and Keystone Heights, as well as one unincorporated municipality, Middleburg.

Both regional and national wars greatly impacted life in Clay County. When fighting erupted with the Seminoles in December 1835, Garey's Ferry (the site of present-day Middleburg) was chosen as a supply depot for the U.S. Army on Florida's east coast. In 1836, Ft. Heileman was established and Gary's Ferry was one of the few Florida frontier towns not abandoned during the 2nd Seminole War. As the Civil War was nearing its end, Clay County saw its first battle. In mid-1864, Union forces established a fort at Magnolia Springs on the St. Johns River where they could send troops to apply pressure to Confederate forces located within the county. While Union troops were returning from a successful raid on Middleburg, Confederate forces under the command of Capt. J.J. Dickinson engaged the Union troops and inflicted heavy casualties. The battle lasted 45 minutes with no casualties among the Confederate troops.

After the Civil War, tourism became a vital part of Clay County life. Northerners were drawn to natural springs that promised healing and warm winter climates that offered respite from frigid northern winters. The tourists were delighted by the exotic wildlife and vegetation found along the banks of the creeks and rivers. Dozens of hotels were built to accommodate the visitors who came by steamboat. Hotels such as the St. Elmo, Magonlia Springs, Clarendon, and the Oakland Hotels invited tourists to rest and relax in the sunny climate of Florida. Families along the St. Johns River, such as the Flemings, opened their plantation homes to northern visitors. Among the visitors to Clay County were such famous people as Ulysses S. Grant, President Grover Cleveland (who had spring water shipped to the White House), Buffalo Bill, and Sitting Bull. The height of tourism in Clay County spanned three decades, from the 1870's to the early 1900's. Tourism in Clay County went into decline when Henry Flagler's railroad reached Miami, and south Florida was easily accessible.

There have been several nationally-known Clay County native born residents. Nixon Smiley was a renowned journalist, naturalist, and the author of 15 books. General Roy S. Geiger, USMC, was a famous WWII General. Augusta Savage, an African-American, was an internationally-known sculptor who was part of the "Harlem Renaissance" in Paris during the 1920's and 1930's. Charles Merrill was the founder of Merrill Lynch.

The military has had a very strong presence in Clay County, particularly since WWII. In 1939, 28,000 acres on Kingsley Lake in central Clay County were purchased by the Florida National Guard as a new training site. In heavy use during WWII, Camp Blanding was not deemed a viable permanent post after the war. It is now a training site for the Florida National Guard with over 70,000 acres, and the museum there is the largest in Clay County. During WWII Lee Field, in Green Cove Springs, was a flight-training center. One of the flight instructors at Lee Field during this time was Ed McMann of the Tonight Show/Star Search fame. At the end of the war, the Navy converted Lee Field into a headquarters for the mothball fleet. Clay County residents have contributed greatly to war efforts throughout the nation's history, and the list of those who fought for their country, on both foreign and domestic soil, is indeed long.

There are many museums in Clay County that are wonderful sources of historic information. The Clay County Historical and Railroad Museum, located at 915 Walnut Street in Green Cove Springs, is open on Sundays from 2:00 - 5:00 pm. The phone number is (904) 284-9644.

The Middleburg Historical Museum is located at 3912 Section Street in Middleburg. Office hours are Sundays, 2:00 to 4:00 pm, and the phone number is (904) 282-5357 or (904) 282-5343.

The Black Heritage Museum, located on Longmire Avenue at Hunter-Douglas Park in Middleburg, is open by appointment. Please call Maude Jackson at (904) 282-4168, Mamie Oliver at (904) 282-5223, or Sarah Weeks at (904) 282-5205 for information.

Camp Blanding Museum and Memorial Park, located at Camp Blanding on State Road 16 at Kingsley Lake, is open Tuesday through Friday from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm and on Saturday and Sunday from 1:00 pm to 5:00 pm. The phone number is (904) 533-3100, extension 3196.

A wonderful source of Clay County history are the books, "Images of America; Clay County", by Kevin S. Hooper of Middleburg (2004,ISBN 0-7385-1635-X. Arcadia Publishing) and "Parade of Memories", by Arch Fredric Blakey.  For further information please contact us at the Charles E. Merrill Educational and Historical Resource Center & Clay County Archives, Clayarch@bellsouth.net.